Michigan Icefest

Makes my hands sweat watching the ropeless ascent!  Give me ice any day!

I must be going through ice withdrawls with our early departure of ice this year.  Here’s another video shot on Bridal Veil Falls in Colorado with Michigan Ice Fest friends Ben Clark and Dawn Glanc

How strong are ice screws with a real dynamic fall with differing fall factors?  There’s only one way to find out. Check out the research paper at : http://www.strikerescue.com/research

There are two kinds of great athletes. The first stand out by comparison, the Jordans, Gretzkys and Maradonas who dominate by being consistently better than their peers. The second are completely different. These are the athletes whose approach is so different from what has come before that they not only excel, but change their sports in the process. Ueli Steck is one of these athletes.

Steck isn’t just a fast climber. His application of speed and ultra-marathon level endurance to mountaineering is as revolutionary as Reinhold Messner’s introduction of alpine-style climbing to the Himalayas in the 1970s. Steck is, in effect, creating a new sport, shattering speed records by moving faster over snow, rock and ice than most climbers can imagine.

But what does it mean for alpinism to be focused on time? Traditionally, in the climbing world, records were fixed. When a team or soloist bagged a first ascent, that was that. The route could be climbed again, climbed faster, or in a different style, but the first ascent stayed on the books. Time-based records, like those in running, only hold till someone faster comes along.

Steck, though, continues to approach his projects with a traditional climbing mindset. His goal isn’t to beat a competitor’s time but to reinvent a route as a speed climb. Like the first free ascent of a climb that has only previously been aided, Steck’s projects are reinterpretations of existing routes. After setting a speed record on the Eiger, he turned to the Himalaya to pioneer speed ascents on 8,000 meter peaks. He returns this spring to continue that quest.

So while Steck’s projects are measured in time, what sets them apart is the vision behind them. Eventually, his time record for any given climb may be beaten. But like Roger Bannister’s sub-four-minute mile, his first speed ascents will stand as milestones even if their times are broken.

To develop this next generation of alpine gear, Steck teamed up with Mountain Hardwear’s product development team. For the past year, they have worked together to create the ultimate Alpine Speed Climbing kit, a system of apparel, accessories and equipment that’s not just lighter than anything available today, but designed with a simplicity and efficiency of function tailored to Steck’s style.  The gear that helps to get Ueli up alpine climbs is now available to help on your next adventure -be it a light weight backpacking trip to Isle Royale National Park or a climbing adventure in the Keweenaw!  Stop by to see this amazing gear!

The Desna Light Weight Hoodie

The Desna is our ultimate lightweight hoodie. Its hardface Power Stretch® fabric and versatile semi-fitted cut make this the favorite top for speed-climber Ueli Steck.

Features

Low-profile, helmet-compatible hood is fitted like a balaclava

Deep zipper opening at neck for easy on/off and thermoregulation

Internal stash pocket

Micro-Chamois™-lined chin guard prevents zipper chafe.

The Warlow Pant

Designed for speed-alpinist Ueli Steck, this is the one pant for every alpine activity—minimal in design with maximum stretch.

Features

Elastic waist band with belt loops for customized fit

Zippered hand pockets

Articulated knees

Zippered gussets at hem

Scrambler ULT 30

An ultralight summit pack that is fully featured and versatile enough to satisfy the most demanding alpinist or fast packer.

Features

Compression molded backpanel sheds snow and ventilates

HardWave framesheet provides comfortable carry, but is removable to reduce weight

Top loader with zippered top pocket to keep smaller gear handy

Versatile compression system secures climbing gear and overloads, but can be removed to reduce weight when not needed.

Sternum strap and fixed webbing waistbelt add stability when needed and the low profile padded shoulder straps make for a comfortable carry!

If you haven’t seen Ueli climb check out this video…..he truly is a climbing machine!

While the temperatures climbed into the upper 50′s, across the East Channel we could hear huge pillars crashing into Lake Superior.  Fortunately the mainland stays somewhat protected from the sun and hidden climbs are still climbable.  We cruised the lakeshore trail scouting climbs and found that most of the 20 plus inches of snow last week has melted and there is no hope of climbing any true waterfall.  It looks like for the rest of the season we will be climbing seeps!

Tucked away in the sandstone bowls along the lakeshore, many climbs are still in and thick with hero ice.  Between the soft ice and the warm temperatures the climbing could not have be more pleasurable!

Looks like at least another week of good ice climbing if folks are still looking to get after it.  Be sure to call the store (906-226-7112) before heading out for an up to date conditions report.

Jon Jugenheimer leading the Dryer Hose photo Matt Abbotts

The 2012 Michigan Ice Fest is in the books and 337 participants were greeted with extremely mild temperatures and what turned out to be a lean ice year.   Eight different states were represented this year with participants traveling as far as Kentucky and Colorado- coming to Munising to enjoy the camaraderie of Midwest climbers and the chance to climb at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.  The big story this year has been the weather and the randomness of what climbs were formed.  Go figure…..the ultra classic Dairyland was in, but Memorial Falls was not, Sweet Mother Moses was in but Tannery Falls was not.

THURSDAY

New this year, the  Fest started with an Introduction to Ice Course, and a Top Rope Anchor Course on Thursday where participants spent the day learning he tricks of the trade out at the Curtains. Many folks new to the Fest were excited to get out on the ice and a chance to climb the vertical pillars that are so common in the park.

We kicked off the festival on Thursday night with  the first ever “Participants Slide Show: Beers with Bill” while enjoying a tasty beverage climbers were treated to a collection of slides submitted by Ice Fest participants and set to music.

Dirk VanKoughnett gettin' after it photo Christopher Lemon

FRIDAY

With temps still in the mid 30′s climbers hit the trails in search of ice.  Several groups headed out to Miners Lake Falls, Miners Beach area as well as being dispersed along the lakeshore trail.  The fest also saw an increase in rentals as many took advantage to check out gear and climb in small groups throughout the park.  Two more courses, an Introduction to Ice Course, and a Top Rope Anchor Course were filled and went out for a day of instruction and climbing.

Friday evenings festivities started off with a climbing social and free beer sponsored by Ames Adventure Outdoors, Scarpa and Osprey.  Due to a family illness, Roger Strong was unable to make it to last years Fest, but fortunately for us Gold Sponsor Arc Teryx sent Roger out this year to instruct and present.  Roger thrilled the crowd with slides and video from his days as a crab captain on the first two seasons of the Discovery Channels Deadliest Catch, climbing ice bergs, ice routes in the northwest, and finally an amazing story of a serious ski accident he was involved in last year.

Because of a monster snowstorm in Colorado, perennial Ice Fest athlete Mark Wilford was unable to attend so our second slide show of the evening had to be cancelled.  The rest of the evening you could find people browsing the booths of Bob The Mountaineer and Down Wind Sports looking to score a few deals!

SATURDAY

As usual we got the ball rolling early with equipment hand out for Ice Fest Courses.  The Intro to Ice, Lead climbing, Women’s Intro to Ice and the Kids courses all filled up fast and participants were treated to instruction provided by Roger Strong, Barry Blanchard, and Vince Anderson.  After getting the courses set and on their way it was time to hook up participants with demo gear.  This year the line to pick up gear was exceptionally long running down stairs and winding through the restaurant.  For the first time in Ice Fest history we were able outfit everyone who showed up to demo gear!  All of our demo sponsors really stepped up this year by sending larger demo kits and it was certainly appreciated!

The Demo area at the Curtains also saw changes this year with a shortage of ice to climb.  Most years we are able to hang ten ropes for participants to climb….this year we squeaked by with five ropes.   Hundreds of climbers were challenged throughout the day with a variety of difficult climbs set up.

After a long day of climbing, everyone converged upon Sydney’s for the Saturday evening social and free beer provided by La Sportiva.  With a standing room only crowd, our first presentation of the evening was from Vince Anderson. In 2005, Vince, along with Steve House pioneered a direct new route on the Rupal Face of 8126-meter (26,660-foot) Nanga Parbat. The 4100-meter (13,500-foot) face had never before been climbed in alpine style and their alpine-style ascent is one the boldest Himalayan ascents to date.  Vince’s humor, delivery, and  passion in telling this remarkable story was inspiring and had the crowd in awe.  A huge thank you goes out to Gold Level sponsor Patagonia for sending Vince to the Fest!

Our final presentation of the night was from Ice Fest favorite Barry Blanchard.  A fantastic story teller, Barry reminisced about past climbing partners, including Kevin Doyle and Guy Lacelle -really hitting home on what makes a special climbing partner/friend.  Many beautiful slides showed classic Canadian Rockies routes that were pioneered by Barry and his friends.  The highlight of the presentation for many was Barry giving the insider details on his work as a climbing adviser and safety rigger on a number of Hollywood films including Cliffhanger, and Vertical Limit!

Sue Nott Scholarship winners Sommer and Izabella!

After the shows we introduced Sommer Edwards and Izabella Tancredi as the 2012 Sue Nott Scholarship winners.  Down Wind Sports has created the Sue Nott Scholarship with the purpose to promote, inspire, and introduce young females to the sport of ice climbing. The girls had to submit a letter of why they wanted to participate, a letter of recommendation from someone other then their parents, and their report card.  Sommer and Izabella were selected from the largest group of girls ever to submit applications and were provided with free entry into the fest and the Women’s Intro To Ice Course.  Way to go girls!

As usual the evening concluded with the Michigan Ice Fest raffle where we gave out over $4000.00 of gear and clothing to some very excited climbers.  Soft shells, belay parkas, BD Stinger Crampons, Sterling and Petzl ropes, Osprey Packs, and La Sportiva Nepal Evo ice boots were only a few of the items raffled off!  A big shout out to Patagonia, La Sportiva, Mountain Hardwear, Sterling, Black Diamond, Petzl and Osprey for providing such killer raffle prizes!

SUNDAY

More mild temps greeted our Intro to Ice  and Intro to Leading participants which made for comfortable classes all day long.  The effects of climbing hard all day Saturday and a late night of socializing must have took it toll on climbers as the demo area was a very laid back all day Sunday allowing climbers their choice of routes for most of the day.

All in all it was another great Michigan Ice Festival and we appreciate all of the patronage we get from Midwest climbers.  We are proud to say that over the weekend we were able to sign up 31 new members to the American Alpine Club, and the Access Fund  and exposed hundreds of first time climbers to the sport of ice climbing.

The reason our event is so successful is because of the assistance we get from all of our sponsors.  If you were at the event and had fun, enjoyed the presenters, or loved the killer raffle prizes please drop the following sponsors a note to tell them that you appreciate them supporting the Michigan Ice Fest!

Patagonia                         josh_nielsen@patagonia.com      dixiemarree@patagonia.com

Arc Teryx                        jwilmers@msn.com

La Sportiva                    iachey@sportiva.com

Black Diamond              tj.kolanko@bdel.com

Scarpa                               Brian@goaao.com

Petzl                                   brad@pembaserves.com

Osprey                             Brian@goaao.com

Grivel                               PeterM@LIBERTYMOUNTAIN.com

Be sure to keep up with what is happening with the Michigan Ice Fest through our blog at michiganicefest.com or on our facebook page!

SAVE THE DATES!

ICE FEST 2013 January 31st-February 3rd

For years Black Diamond has been very generous by sending huge amounts of demo gear so that participants can test out the latest and greatest ice climbing gear.  BD, like our other Gold Sponsors, has sent amazing athletes to our event  ensuring that we get the highest quality instructors, and are entertained in the evening with inspiring stories of climbing around the world.   This year BD  graciously sent Barry “Bubba” Blanchard.

Barry Blanchard is known world wide as the modern father of Canadian alpine mountaineering and hard ice climbs. Recent additions to his backyard are M16 on Howse Peak and his long awaited ascent of Infinite Patience on the Emperor face of Mt. Robson.

Barry has traveled around the world in search of Alpine adventure, these travels have include new routes on the North face of the Droites, in Chamonix, and two successful Everest expeditions. Most impressive was his bold Alpine style attempt of the massive Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat; the team came very close to summiting before having to turn around due to stormy weather. An epic descent followed including the accidental throwing away of the ropes and the lucky discovery of some new ones! Barry is an internationally certified UIAGM guide and frequently works as a safety coordinator for Hollywood.

We also took a sneak peak to see what was in  the BD demo kit and boy are we ever ready to give the Black Diamond Stinger Crampons a ride!  Designed to tackle serious ice and mixed lines on winter crags and alpine faces the world over, the BD Stinger is a lightweight stainless steel crampon with a replaceable monopoint. An asymmetrical design fits the contours of modern mountain boots, and thin, low-profile heel and toe wires offer a precise fit for less weight.

• Asymmetrical stainless steel design is lightweight, won’t rust and fits the contours of modern boots
• Mono frontpoint is replaceable at low cost and can be changed quickly and easily in the field
• Hooded frontpoint and aggressive secondary points are optimized for precise, secure placements
• Low-profile micro-adjust heel level offers precision fit
• Thin, low-profile toe bail and thinner, shorter heel wire for improved fit with modern boots
• Includes front and rear dual-density ABS

Like what you see?  Have we got a deal for you!  For the first time ever offered an Ice Fest special of 25% off all hardwear at the event.  Forgot to pick something up this weekend?  We can extend the Ice Fest discount this week- call or email the store for your hook up!  Once again a big thank you goes out to Black Diamond for another year at being a Gold Level Sponsor!

One of our gold level sponsors Arc’teryx is really stepping up to the plate this year by sending one of their team athletes, Roger Strong to instruct and present a slide show Friday night.

Roj’s former career was a captain of a commercial crab fishing vessel in the Bering Sea of Alaska: a job he did for over 20 years (You can see him profiled and posing on the first two seasons of the Discovery Channel’s Deadliest Catch.)

He’s been climbing for nearly 25 years and feels lucky to have climbed all over the globe, opening new rock, mixed, alpine and big wall routes in Alaska, Canada, Mexico and the U.S.  Roj loves being on anything vertical, steep and long, mixed with horrible weather to keep him feeling like he’s still getting his ass kicked on the boat somewhere. He attributes any success that he’s had in the mountains to his close relationships with his wife, family and friends coupled with the rigors he’s endured on the deck of the crab boat.

Besides Roger, Arc’teryx is also sending some of their popular climbing harnesses to demo so participants will be able to check these out and go “hang” out at the demo.  Arc’teryx designed the M280 Mixed Climbing Harness to give demanding ice and mixed climbers a lightweight, comfortable feel with all the features they need and nothing more. Thanks to revolutionary WST construction, this Arc’teryx harness disperses weight throughout the entire width of the waist belt, so it doesn’t need bulky padding. The M280 Harness includes two gear loops to hold your draws and four ice clipper slots to help carry screws and holster tools. Arc’teryx also used mesh leg loops to decrease bulk even further and shave weight to a mere 9.8oz.

Don’t forget to check out one of these sweet harnesses at some point Ice Fest weekend!

Another bonus is that Down Wind sports will also be stocking an array of Arc’teryx clothing in the store and between slide shows participants will be able to shop for killer deals!

Thanks Arc’teryx for committing to support Mid West ice climbers and sending Roger to this years Michigan Ice Fest!

To help alleviate the parking problem along Sand Point Road, we are offering a free shuttle to and from the demo area and the Sand Point Road parking area. Departures are from Sydney’s Restaurant, The Curtains and the Sand Point Road parking area.

The shuttle departs every half hour from Sydney’s

Our friend Bob will be back at it again this year displaying his wares at the festival headquarters in Sydney’s.  Bob’s brings to the fest interesting and sometimes signed, climbing memorabilia which makes for great reading back home or at the hotel room.  He sells, trades, or buys mountaineering books, older climbing magazines and climbing catalogs, signed mountaineering expedition postcards and covers, and mountain related postage stamps.  If you don’t see it ask!  He may have it or know of someone who does.  These make great gifts for climbers so during the fest stop by Bob’s table and see what treasures you may find!