Category: Climbing News

Sharpen Your Own Screws With The Petzl Lim’Ice!

Bill

In years past sharpening an ice screw was either super expensive or incredibly time consuming…..not anymore!  FINALLY- Petzl has introduced a light, compact, hold in your hand, tool for sharpening any ice screw.  The Lim’ice fits neatly in the palm of your hand and is the roughly the size of an electric razor . The tool consists of a file with a handle and guide so you can insert any ice screw- simply move the screw up and down a few times to sharpen.

The Lim’ice is also very easy to use even a drooling ice climber type can figure out how to do it.  There are two holes on the guide-insert your screw in one to sharpen the vertical edges, and then into the other to sharpen the angles. When you insert an ice screw into the guide you twist it half clockwise to lock it in place. Petzl suggest moving the screw up and down the file 3 to 4 times depending on how dull the screw is.

At the edge of each hole is a small triangle graphic explaining the sharpening process, ensuring you sharpen each tooth, but it is advisable to mark each tooth with a black marker after you’ve sharpened it so you remember where you are!  Ice is almost here so get your screws ice ready and capable of going through bullet proof ice like a hot knife through butter!

 

  • Easy handling of the device makes for quick and easy sharpening
  • Two sharpening guides allow precise sharpening of both sides of the drill teeth
  • Standard sharpening guides allow sharpening of most ice screws
  • High-quality file is reversible for extended life

 

Can’t buy it at your local shop?  Click here to purchase it from your friends at Down Wind Sports!

Sam Elias Returns To Ice Fest!

Bill

 

This is one of those things that happen and we just roll with it.  Black Diamond was set to send Pete Tapley to this years Ice Fest but due to some unforeseen circumstances he will not be able to attend this years event.  With some scrambling, Gold Level Sponsor Black Diamond has booked Ice Fest favorite Sam Elias to join the 2014 Michigan Ice Fest line up. We welcome Sam Elias back to Ice Fest and can’t wait to see his amazing slide presentation! Super big thanks goes out to Black Diamond for stepping up and sending Sam!

Sam Elias —

I was born on August 25, 1982 in southeastern Michigan, USA it is where my family still resides. I currently live in the state of Colorado. Climbing is a driving passion for my life. I have been fortunate to feel an innate connection to its practice from the beginning, and I have structured my life so that I can be dedicated to it.

Before climbing, my life was consumed with alpine skiing and ski racing. I have skied since I was 2 ½ years old. I began racing at the age of 12, and when I was 16, I moved from Michigan to Salt Lake City, UT to attend Rowmark Ski Racing Academy. After that, I was recruited to ski race for the College of Idaho. I still ski frequently, both on and off piste.  It is such a pleasure to be outside and in the mountains, and I experience a great sense of freedom and peace there.

I was introduced to climbing through sport climbing, and it is my main pursuit. However, I enjoy many styles; traditional climbing, bouldering, deep water soloing, and most recently ice and winter mixed (M) climbing/dry tooling. The quest to understand myself through climbing has deeply enriched my life, and for this I am eternally grateful. As a result, I feel a responsibility to continue to explore within the pursuit for as long as I am motivated and capable.

Highlights
• Climbing up to 5.13c within a year, and 5.14a in 2 years
• Rock red points up to 5.14c
• Rock on sights up to 5.13c
• Ice up to WI6
• Mixed up to M12+
• First ascents up to 5.14b and M12
• 2nd place at 2010 Ouray Ice competition
• 1st place at 2011 and 2012 Winter Mountain Games mixed competition in Vail, CO
• Summiting Mt. Everest in May of 2012

For more information, and to see what’s going on with Sam check out the Book of Sam.

Gold Level Sponsor Patagonia Signs On- Kelly Cordes To Return To Ice Fest

Bill

We are so proud to announce that industry leader Patagonia has signed on as a Gold Level sponsor for the 2014 Michigan Ice Fest!   This year the folks at Patagonia are  graciously sending Ice Fest favorite Kelly Cordes!

Over the last 20 years, Colorado climber Kelly Cordes’s passion for climbing has blended seamlessly with a frugal lifestyle, an unabashed avoidance of full-time work, and a love affair with fine tequila. He’s certain that this combination relates to an alpine-style mindset that has seen him establish committing new lines on Great Trango Tower in Pakistan, Cerro Torre in Patagonia, several routes in Alaska, and indulge in countless adventures closer to home. Professionally, after finishing grad school at the University of Montana, he scored a job at Taco Bell before moving on to Pizza Hut (flexible hours, free leftover…), which led to years of shack dwelling which, somehow, led to a living climbing and writing.

 You can read some of Kelly’s amazing writing and  learn more  about Kelly’s shenanigan’s  by following his blog at: http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/

 

 “I believe that the three – margarita’s, goofing-off and climbing can co-exist in harmony – and if I’m right, then nothing can stop us all from living together as one.” Kelly Cordes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gold Sponsor Black Diamond Sends Pete Tapley To This Years Ice Fest!

Bill

Courtesy of Black Diamond Equipment, Pete comes to us from Bozeman, MT, where he works year-round as a professional mountain guide.  His climbing career stretches back to the late eighties, and has been punctuated with numerous standard-bearing first ascents.  While preferring to consider himself an all arounder, he sheepishly confesses that, “I have to admit, my winters seem to keep getting longer, and while alpinism lies at the heart of my passion for climbing, there’s no denying that I’ve been shaped by my surroundings and have evolved into somewhat of an ice specialist.”

Though Tapley is well know for his adventurous climbs, writing, photography and video shorts, he also prides himself on his ability teach.   “It’s what I feel sets me apart from the throngs of other excellent guides out there – my passion for and commitment to being the best instructor that I can be.  I thrive on the connection to people who share this love for climbing.  It might sound altruistic, but rest assured, I take great satisfaction in seeing a student’s ability and knowledge grow…not to mention, the enthusiasm of new climbers is infectious and keeps that fire inside burning bright.”

Pete’s multi-media presentation will focus on the relation of backyard adventure to the greater ranges and include imagery from his and Scott Adamson’s 5,000’ new route on the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth. You can learn more about Pete and follow his blog at petetapley.com.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13s/newswire-mooses-tooth-east-face

http://www.petetapley.com/home.html

New Backcountry Guide To Pictured Rocks Released!

Bill

DownWindFBgraphic

Looking to put up some first ascents this winter?  I just spent several hours on the couch checking out Michel Neiger’s latest work- Exploring Pictured Rocks West Side, which reveals hundreds of caves throughout the park and possible first ascents for those willing to explore.   If your planning a trip to visit Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore anytime of the year, then this guide is a must!  “Exploring Pictured Rocks” is an 8.5″ by 11″ full-color heavily-annotated map guide to the PRNL, which is located along the south shore of Lake Superior, near Munising, Michigan. The map guide relies on full-size, full-color, 1:24,000-scale, US Geological Survey quadrangles to show the location of trails, campsites, beaches, overlooks, old growth, waterfalls, historic sites, caves, & shipwrecks. Each feature is described according to name, dimension, physical distance from other features, GPS coordinates, elevation, etc. Historical info is also included. Developed by our friend Michael- who explored every inch of this park, this is the most detailed information on PRNL ever produced!    $19.95

Michigan Ice Fest 2014 Lineup Starting To Take Shape!

Bill

Just got word that Gold sponsor Black Diamond has signed Pete Tapley to present and instruct at this years fest!  Look for a more detailed bio for Pete coming soon!

PETE TAPLEY

Pete offers a unique blend of skills that cover not only all aspects of mountain life, but also a distinctive and highly effective teaching style, honed over two decades of experience.  He’s taught climbers of all ages and ability levels and has an impeccable safety record.
His talents extend well beyond the climbing world, yet dovetail perfectly as he documents his adventures through creative and original writing, video shorts and still imagery.  His published works have been featured in Alpinist, Backcountry and Climberism Magazine, among others.
Blending these interests, Tapley is frequently found at various climbing festivals and trade show events, as well as throughout the pages of popular climbing periodicals and marketing materials.

 

Ice Conditions Report 4-7-13

Bill

If your thinking the ice season might be over…think again!  We headed out to Munising on Sunday and found excellent conditions .  Hard to believe but the lake ice is still in- including ice to ski to Grand Island.  We strapped on the skis and decided to go check out the conditions along the lakeshore.  It has be awhile since we have seen this good of conditions this late in the year.

 

Dairyland and Udder Delight

 

While seeps are in excellent conditions the true waterfall are becoming just that…..a waterfall.  Most pillars that are tucked away out of the sunlight (not that there has been any sunlight) are still fat.  The warmer temperature have made the ice “plasticy” and just like Colorado ice- easy to climb!

 

Our guess is that we have several more weeks of ice season left and our hoping to beat our all time record of May 6th as an ending date.  Will keep everyone posted- so don’t store that gear yet and come up for some last climbs of the year!