The last week has brought a big change to the weather. It’s definitely more springlike than it was last winter with many of the more exposed climbs taking a beating in the warm temps.
The seeps are still holding up and, while they will be wet, should be climbable for a while longer but will continue to deteriorate with overnight temps not getting below freezing for a few days. Any of the climbs out on the Lakeshore that see the sun should be approached with extreme caution. Many have likely fallen and the others won’t last long. An exception to this may be HMR, which was in particularly fat shape at the end of last week.
The snow in the park is still pretty deep in places and is getting really soft, so be prepared for slog.
As always, check by the store for the most current conditions. We’re winding down and all of the beautiful ice is melting back into Lake Superior, so if you want some last swings don’t wait!
Big Pine Pillar (4/9)Chief Ranger Joe Hughes on 3 Sisters (4/7)
Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.
At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs.
As ice season winds down, we are beginning to book rock climbing trips for the warmer months. If you want to trade in the tools for a chalk bag, book a trip at RockClimbMichigan.com
It might officially be spring, but it’s still Ice Season in the U.P. Warm days and cold overnight temps are keeping most of our climbs in great late season shape.
Lots of spring sunshine is making for soft and wet conditions in the afternoons on climbs along the lakeshore with more exposure, but mornings are dryer. Climbs along Sand Point Rd. that don’t see the same sunshine are consistently good.
The warmer day time temps and sunshine make the climbing really special. Hero ice, comfortable belays and warm sun on faces that haven’t felt anything but cold wind for months are about as good as it gets. Get here while it lasts. We’re still booking guided trips and renting gear. Don’t give up on winter yet!
As always this time of year, conditions can change fast so if you are heading out it’s worth a stop at the shop for the most up to date info.
AGF – PC John MillerThe Balcony – PC John MillerBridalveil Falls – PC John MillerThe Schoolroom – PC John MillerSwamp Thing – PC John Miller
Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.
At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!
One of the unique characteristics of ice climbing at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is that may of the climbs are not exposed to the sun making them safe to climb well into spring! Longer days, warmer temperatures and of course, hero ice make March and April our favorite times to climb ice! Sand Point Road is one area where the sun never really hits the ice making for climbable ice well into spring.
The back country of PRNL is another story. Out along the Lakeshore Trail many climbs ARE EXPOSED TO THE SUN, which forces climbers to make the decision whether it is say to climb a climb or not. What makes this so difficult, is that there’s no clear-cut guidelines telling you when you can and cannot go ice climbing. To make a decision, you need to make a call based on your experience and intuition. So what makes a pillar safe to climb?
Obviously the thicker the ice is the more solid it will be. We always look at the cone of a pillar and if it is wide at the base it usually is very supportive of the weight above it. The thinner an ice column is, the higher the chance that it’s going to break when you swing an axe into it or kick into it.
Do your best to judge the thickness of the ice but also inspect the top of the climb where it is attached to the rock. If the climb is exposed to the rock it will tend to melt out there first as the rock heats up.
Reading ice is always an imperfect science. Be sure to listen when you’re swinging and kicking as the ice can tell you a lot about its stability. The sound that is created by swinging your tool will these tell you a lot about how well the ice is bonded to the wall behind it. For climbs exposed to the sun along the Lakeshore Trail, , this is VERY important. If a pillar is vibrating or making hollow sounds, this is a cause for concern and maybe a sign to bail.
If you have doubts, don’t climb it. The consequences are high and the reward is rarely worth it. There’s lots of ice still available.
This last weeks storm and the weekends cold temps have conditions prime right now. Lots of great climbing to be done, just be aware that this time of year conditions change rapidly.
SAND POINT ROAD/FRONT COUNTRY
Climbs are in and looking good. The amphitheater should be approached with caution. There’s a big fracture at the bottom and it has many daggers.
The Dryer Hose – PC John MillerThe Schoolroom – PC Tyler DavisThe Curtains – PC Tyler Davis
BACKCOUNTRY
The recent storm and cold weather have the backcountry looking good and conditions should hold throughout the week with cloudy days and low overnight temps. The weekend will bring some warmth and sunshine which make for great spring climbing.
Our guides have been out all week and report lots of great climbing. Dairyland, Rappin’ Ice, Sweet Mother Moses, Miners & Bridalveil Falls, Midnight Rambler, and HMR are all in good shape.
Rappin Ice 3-16-23Rappin Ice 3-16-23Rappin Ice 3-16-23HMR – PC Anthony DewarBridalveil Falls – PC John MillerDairyland – PC Tyler Davis
Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.
At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!
Our winter conditions continue to keep rolling in with snow and cold temperatures which provided some of the best ice conditions we have had all winter long! Relatively speaking, this past weekend was pretty quite as far a visiting climbers so if you are thinking of coming up next weekend you should have your pick of some of the classic climbs! The advantage of coming up and climbing in March is that the seeps are bigger, the ice is solid, our days are longer and after suffering all winter long sunshine and warmer temperatures makes for easier climbing!
Here is a look at current conditions of the climbs:
SAND POINT ROAD/FRONT COUNTRY
All climbs are in and fat. The only exception would be right Twin which does have some water flowing in the center of the climb.
The Dryer HoseThe AmpitheaterSwamp ThingThe School RoomNo BoundariesOpening Curtain
BACKCOUNTRY
It really doesn’t get any better than the conditions we have right now! All kinds of BC climbs are in and just waiting for climbers!
Midnight Rambler PC Miller CollectionSweet Mother Moses Miller CollectionWidow Maker PC Miller Collection
Left Soda Straw PC @jaradfreyMiners Falls PC Miller Collection
Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.
At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!
The Munising area saw lots of action this past weekend with visiting climbers finding fat mid/late season conditions! On their day off, some of the Michigan Ice Fest Guides hit some of the PRNL Classics during a rare bluebird weekend!
Dairyland 3-5-23Dairyland 3-5-23Dairyland 3-5-23 Miller Collection
For those interested and competent to climb out over the lake, Dairyland is in amazing condition right now. Plenty of ice and Sunday morning it was totally dry. Bridalveil, Rappin Ice, and Miners Falls all saw action over the weekend. Strawberry daze appeared to not be touching down but we really didn’t get a good look at it.
Opening Curtains 3-4-23 Miller Collection
The Front Country remains solid with all formations climbable and growing. There is a ton of ice to climb and remember a short walk from your car can put you into the wilderness and some solitude. Be sure to check out the guide book to assist in finding those seldom climbed formations!
Please remember that the Park service does not allow parking along Sand Point Road. Please park in the designated lot and carefully walk the road back to the climbs.
Grand Island saw some climbers skiing out to Trout Bay only to find very sun baked ice. Risky lake ice and questionable climbable ice makes staying on the mainland a better decision if you really want to climb quality ice. Be sure to check our website of social media channels for the latest ice conditions reports. If your group needs to rent gear Down Wind Sports in Munising offers Ice Gear rentals and are open 7 days a week. Check out the rental details here!
Over in Marquette this weekend a new to us climb formed along the Lakeshore between Hidden Beach and the Lakeshore climb. Steep and super technical we hope this climb stays around a bit so that folks can go and get a pump on! It is also a good reminder that exploring can sometimes pay off in a good way!
Our long term forecast still looks amazing for building ice and excellent March climbing conditions. You really can’t ask for a better forecast, warmer temps during the day and freezing temperatures at night. Looks like we will be having an extended season! Time to grab some friends and come up and get after it!
Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.
At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!
SPI COURSE APRIL 14-16th 2023 Marquette, Michigan $575.00
The Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Program teaches climbing instructors to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting. The SPI is the only internationally recognized single pitch climbing instructor certification program in the United States. This program is the industry standard for facilitating single pitch outdoor rock climbing. It is also a highly beneficial program to complete prior to moving into the AMGA Guide Track Programs.
The SPI Program consists of a 3 day course and separate 2 day assessment. Candidates should meet the required prerequisites prior to attending the course or assessment.
Prerequisites:
You are a Professional Member of the AMGA.
You have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
You are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
You have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
You are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
You have led a minimum of 15 traditional rock climbing routes (any grade).
You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.
SPI ASSESSMENT APRIL 17-18th 2023 Marquette, Michigan $399.00
The SPI Assessment is two days in length (minimum of 16 hours assessment time) and will take place at a single pitch climbing area where there are a selection traditional lead routes in the 5.6 range and top roping routes in the 5.8 range. The assessment will examine all aspects of institutional single pitch climbing that the Single Pitch Instructor may encounter. Day one will look at climbing movement and all aspects of technical systems from anchoring to assistance skills and general climbing competence. On day two the examiner will arrange for volunteer novice clients (non-paying) for the candidates to instruct in a group setting.
Prerequisites
You are a current member of the AMGA.
You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course.
You have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes, most of which should be 5.6 and on a variety of rock types.
You are able to comfortably lead 5.6 traditional routes, which means you place protection.
You are able to comfortably climb 5.8 on top rope.
The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the assessment prerequisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate take time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (6-12 months).
You do not need First Aid training to take the course or assessment. However, it is your responsibility to hold appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in.
Now that the dust has somewhat settled from Ice Fest it is time to get back to our conditions report! Immediately after the fest we experienced a warm up and thought for sure that we would loose some of our pillars. The good news is that our normal winter temperatures have returned and the ice is quite nice! This past holiday weekend we saw many climbers up and down Sand Point Road which is a good thing but remember there is great ice to climb, many formations still untouched this season, scattered throughout the park. Also a friendly reminder, there is no parking along Sand Point Road so please drive all the way down to the parking lots! If you are planning a trip up you should find excellent conditions both in the front and back country locations.
Sand Point FallsSand Point Falls
Miners Falls PC Emily Gantner
Grand Island is still inaccessible due to open water and very thin lake ice. We aren’t giving up on the island quite yet but it is not looking good for any climbing out there. Be sure to check our website of social media channels for the latest ice conditions reports. If your group needs to rent gear Down Wind Sports in Munising offers Ice Gear rentals and are open 7 days a week. Check out the rental details here!
Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.
At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!
Just a reminder that the Michigan Ice Fest will be conducting classes Wednesday through Sunday at Ice Fest. That means classes will be on the following climbs starting at 9am each day: We appreciate if folks can stay away from these areas during class times. Please note there will be NO CLASSES on The Dryer Hose or The Ampitheater all week long!
Looking for a secluded spot to climb? Please stop by our headquarters where we can direct you to many areas that see little or no climbers all season long! We appreciate everyone cooperating to make this event happen!
