Ice Conditions Report 3-20-23

Happy Spring Everyone!

One of the unique characteristics of ice climbing at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is that may of the climbs are not exposed to the sun making them safe to climb well into spring! Longer days, warmer temperatures and of course, hero ice make March and April our favorite times to climb ice! Sand Point Road is one area where the sun never really hits the ice making for climbable ice well into spring.

The back country of PRNL is another story. Out along the Lakeshore Trail many climbs ARE EXPOSED TO THE SUN, which forces climbers to make the decision whether it is say to climb a climb or not. What makes this so difficult, is that there’s no clear-cut guidelines telling you when you can and cannot go ice climbing. To make a decision, you need to make a call based on your experience and intuition. So what makes a pillar safe to climb?

Obviously the thicker the ice is the more solid it will be. We always look at the cone of a pillar and if it is wide at the base it usually is very supportive of the weight above it. The thinner an ice column is, the higher the chance that it’s going to break when you swing an axe into it or kick into it.

Do your best to judge the thickness of the ice but also inspect the top of the climb where it is attached to the rock. If the climb is exposed to the rock it will tend to melt out there first as the rock heats up.

Reading ice is always an imperfect science. Be sure to listen when you’re swinging and kicking as the ice can tell you a lot about its stability. The sound that is created by swinging your tool will these tell you a lot about how well the ice is bonded to the wall behind it. For climbs exposed to the sun along the Lakeshore Trail, , this is VERY important. If a pillar is vibrating or making hollow sounds, this is a cause for concern and maybe a sign to bail.

If you have doubts, don’t climb it. The consequences are high and the reward is rarely worth it. There’s lots of ice still available.


This last weeks storm and the weekends cold temps have conditions prime right now. Lots of great climbing to be done, just be aware that this time of year conditions change rapidly.

SAND POINT ROAD/FRONT COUNTRY

Climbs are in and looking good. The amphitheater should be approached with caution. There’s a big fracture at the bottom and it has many daggers.

BACKCOUNTRY

The recent storm and cold weather have the backcountry looking good and conditions should hold throughout the week with cloudy days and low overnight temps. The weekend will bring some warmth and sunshine which make for great spring climbing.

Our guides have been out all week and report lots of great climbing. Dairyland, Rappin’ Ice, Sweet Mother Moses, Miners & Bridalveil Falls, Midnight Rambler, and HMR are all in good shape.

Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.

At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!

Ice Conditions Report 3-13-23

Our winter conditions continue to keep rolling in with snow and cold temperatures which provided some of the best ice conditions we have had all winter long! Relatively speaking, this past weekend was pretty quite as far a visiting climbers so if you are thinking of coming up next weekend you should have your pick of some of the classic climbs!  The advantage of coming up and climbing in March is that the seeps are bigger, the ice is solid, our days are longer and after suffering all winter long sunshine and warmer temperatures makes for easier climbing!

Here is a look at current conditions of the climbs:

SAND POINT ROAD/FRONT COUNTRY

All climbs are in and fat. The only exception would be right Twin which does have some water flowing in the center of the climb.

BACKCOUNTRY

It really doesn’t get any better than the conditions we have right now! All kinds of BC climbs are in and just waiting for climbers!

Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.

At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!

Ice Conditions Report 3-6-23 New Climb Found!

The Munising area saw lots of action this past weekend with visiting climbers finding fat mid/late season conditions!  On their day off, some of the Michigan Ice Fest Guides hit some of the PRNL Classics during a rare bluebird weekend!

For those interested and competent to climb out over the lake, Dairyland is in amazing condition right now. Plenty of ice and Sunday morning it was totally dry. Bridalveil, Rappin Ice, and Miners Falls all saw action over the weekend. Strawberry daze appeared to not be touching down but we really didn’t get a good look at it.

Opening Curtains 3-4-23 Miller Collection

The Front Country remains solid with all formations climbable and growing. There is a ton of ice to climb and remember a short walk from your car can put you into the wilderness and some solitude. Be sure to check out the guide book to assist in finding those seldom climbed formations!

Please remember that the Park service does not allow parking along Sand Point Road. Please park in the designated lot and carefully walk the road back to the climbs.

Grand Island saw some climbers skiing out to Trout Bay only to find very sun baked ice. Risky lake ice and questionable climbable ice makes staying on the mainland a better decision if you really want to climb quality ice. Be sure to check our website of social media channels for the latest ice conditions reports. If your group needs to rent gear Down Wind Sports in Munising offers Ice Gear rentals and are open 7 days a week.  Check out the rental details here!

Over in Marquette this weekend a new to us climb formed along the Lakeshore between Hidden Beach and the Lakeshore climb. Steep and super technical we hope this climb stays around a bit so that folks can go and get a pump on! It is also a good reminder that exploring can sometimes pay off in a good way!

Our long term forecast still looks amazing for building ice and excellent March climbing conditions. You really can’t ask for a better forecast, warmer temps during the day and freezing temperatures at night. Looks like we will be having an extended season! Time to grab some friends and come up and get after it!

Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.

At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!

Ice Conditions Report 2-27-23- It’s Good!

Bridalveil Falls PC John Miller

This past weekend the Park seemed a bit quite, but the climbers who did come up were treated to some of the best ice of the season! Cold overnight temps and warmer days has our ice looking really good and it is setting up to be a banner spring. Virtually all climbs are in and are actually growing!

Miner Castle Road is still being plowed to the Park Service sign which shortens the backcountry approach quite a bit. Use caution though, we have had a bunch of snow lately and are expecting more in the next day or so. Driving all the way out to Miners Beach in NOTR recommended and the towing fees are $500-600.00

For those adventurers who like solitude and want to escape the crowds, there is a lot of ice in the U.P. that is not in Munising. The Black River is an example of that, and reports are that the western end climbs are in!

The Black River is the Western U.P.’s mini ice destination in Big Snow Country, a region also known for its amount of alpine ski hills, and deep lake effect snow. The ice climbs are all located in a small canyon along the fast flowing Black River just a few miles upstream of where it drains into Lake Superior. On a normal season almost a half-dozen lines form along the sides of the canyon walls, with the actual river waterfall rarely freezing and never climbed. All but one of the climbs are located across the river from where you park, which means the river must be well frozen before you can get to the climbs, as the swim across would be rather cold.

Grand Island continues to be inaccessible due to open water and very thin lake ice. We aren’t giving up on the island quite yet but it is not looking good for any climbing out there. Be sure to check our website of social media channels for the latest ice conditions reports. If your group needs to rent gear Down Wind Sports in Munising offers Ice Gear rentals and are open 7 days a week.  Check out the rental details here!

Our long term forecast looks amazing for building ice and excellent March climbing conditions. Time to come up and get after it! Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.

At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!

AMGA Courses Offered

SPI COURSE APRIL 14-16th  2023 Marquette, Michigan  $575.00

The Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Program teaches climbing instructors to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting. The SPI is the only internationally recognized single pitch climbing instructor certification program in the United States. This program is the industry standard for facilitating single pitch outdoor rock climbing. It is also a highly beneficial program to complete prior to moving into the AMGA Guide Track Programs.

The SPI Program consists of a 3 day course and separate 2 day assessment. Candidates should meet the required prerequisites prior to attending the course or assessment.

Prerequisites:

  • You are a Professional Member of the AMGA.
  • You have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
  • You are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
  • You have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
  • You are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
  • You have led a minimum of 15 traditional rock climbing routes (any grade).
  • You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

SPACE IS LIMITED TO 6 PARTICIPANTS PER SPI COURSE!
REGISTER FOR THE SPI COURSE HERE!

SPI ASSESSMENT APRIL 17-18th 2023 Marquette, Michigan  $399.00

The SPI Assessment is two days in length (minimum of 16 hours assessment time) and will take place at a single pitch climbing area where there are a selection traditional lead routes in the 5.6 range and top roping routes in the 5.8 range. The assessment will examine all aspects of institutional single pitch climbing that the Single Pitch Instructor may encounter. Day one will look at climbing movement and all aspects of technical systems from anchoring to assistance skills and general climbing competence. On day two the examiner will arrange for volunteer novice clients (non-paying) for the candidates to instruct in a group setting.

Prerequisites

  • You are a current member of the AMGA.
  • You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course.
  • You have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes, most of which should be 5.6 and on a variety of rock types.
  • You are able to comfortably lead 5.6 traditional routes, which means you place protection.
  • You are able to comfortably climb 5.8 on top rope.
  • The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the assessment prerequisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate take time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (6-12 months).
  • You do not need First Aid training to take the course or assessment. However, it is your responsibility to hold appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in.

SPACE IS LIMITED TO 6 PARTICIPANTS PER ASSESSMENT!
REGISTER FOR THE SPI ASSESSMENT HERE!

Ice Conditions Report 2-20-23

Sweet Mother Moses PC The Millers

Now that the dust has somewhat settled from Ice Fest it is time to get back to our conditions report! Immediately after the fest we experienced a warm up and thought for sure that we would loose some of our pillars. The good news is that our normal winter temperatures have returned and the ice is quite nice! This past holiday weekend we saw many climbers up and down Sand Point Road which is a good thing but remember there is great ice to climb, many formations still untouched this season, scattered throughout the park. Also a friendly reminder, there is no parking along Sand Point Road so please drive all the way down to the parking lots! If you are planning a trip up you should find excellent conditions both in the front and back country locations.

Miners Falls PC Emily Gantner

Grand Island is still inaccessible due to open water and very thin lake ice. We aren’t giving up on the island quite yet but it is not looking good for any climbing out there. Be sure to check our website of social media channels for the latest ice conditions reports. If your group needs to rent gear Down Wind Sports in Munising offers Ice Gear rentals and are open 7 days a week.  Check out the rental details here!

Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.

At Michigan Ice we take pride in being your go to site for current ice climbing conditions for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore as well as climbs throughout the Upper Peninsula. Planning a trip to Pictured Rocks? We have you covered for all the latest snow and ice conditions on all of your favorite climbs. We also offer a full guide service and are currently booking guided ice climbing trips for the 22/23 season! Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!

Climbs Classes will be on during Ice Fest Week!

Just a reminder that the Michigan Ice Fest will be conducting classes Wednesday through Sunday at Ice Fest.  That means classes will be on the following climbs starting at 9am each day: We appreciate if folks can stay away from these areas during class times.  Please note there will be NO CLASSES on The Dryer Hose or The Ampitheater all week long!

Looking for a secluded spot to climb?  Please stop by our headquarters where we can direct you to many areas that see little or no climbers all season long! We appreciate everyone cooperating to make this event happen!

Twin Falls

The Curtains

Lakeshore Curtains

Opening Curtains

Prelude Curtain

Boomer Falls

Little One

Bridal Veil Falls

No Boundaries

Drake Seep

School Room

Swamp Thing

Big Pine Pillar

Miners Falls

Rappin Ice

Boreas / Khione

Ice Conditions Report 1-30-23 Finally Someone Turned Off The Heat!

Emily Gantner at Miners Falls. PC Erik Olsen

Well, we finally got the cold spell everyone has been hoping for and just in time for Ice Fest- better late then never! We are only a few days into it but we are already seeing great progress in the formation of our pillars.

Front Country

The front country has been seeing a lot of action on the weekends and some of the Sand Point Road classics are just now beginning to fill in. No Boundaries, The Dryer Hose, The Curtains, Prelude Curtain are all growing and should be bigger by next weekend. Our guess is most climbable formations will be in by next weekend!

Back Country

Looks like area legend and Pictured Rocks pioneer Paul Kuenn was out exploring the back country and found a few newly formed pillars. He also reported Dairyland is almost formed with the main sheet of ice being five feet from touching down. Pillars continue to grow but not all are in yet.

Reports from the backcountry of climbs that are in include AGF, Bridalveil, The Rim, Rappin Ice, HMR, On The Rocks, and After Midnight. Giddy Up was reported that it was not climbable this past weekend.

Our forecast heading towards Ice Fest week is looking very promising. Cold temperatures and fresh snow are on the way and should be exactly what we need to get the back country pillars in shape to climb.

If you are heading up this way and you forgot your long undies or that ratty belay parka is not cutting it, be sure to stop by Down Wind Sports in Munising to pick up any last minute items, gear rentals or beta!

Please be mind full that this season, formations are extremely delicate and knocking any pillars down at this point may take a month to reform.

Weather and ice conditions can change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.