How strong are ice screws with a real dynamic fall with differing fall factors? There’s only one way to find out. Check out the research paper at : http://www.strikerescue.com/research
Category: Gear and Techniques
New Product- – The Ueli Steck Collection From Mountain Hardwear
There are two kinds of great athletes. The first stand out by comparison, the Jordans, Gretzkys and Maradonas who dominate by being consistently better than their peers. The second are completely different. These are the athletes whose approach is so different from what has come before that they not only excel, but change their sports in the process. Ueli Steck is one of these athletes.
Steck isn’t just a fast climber. His application of speed and ultra-marathon level endurance to mountaineering is as revolutionary as Reinhold Messner’s introduction of alpine-style climbing to the Himalayas in the 1970s. Steck is, in effect, creating a new sport, shattering speed records by moving faster over snow, rock and ice than most climbers can imagine.
But what does it mean for alpinism to be focused on time? Traditionally, in the climbing world, records were fixed. When a team or soloist bagged a first ascent, that was that. The route could be climbed again, climbed faster, or in a different style, but the first ascent stayed on the books. Time-based records, like those in running, only hold till someone faster comes along.
Steck, though, continues to approach his projects with a traditional climbing mindset. His goal isn’t to beat a competitor’s time but to reinvent a route as a speed climb. Like the first free ascent of a climb that has only previously been aided, Steck’s projects are reinterpretations of existing routes. After setting a speed record on the Eiger, he turned to the Himalaya to pioneer speed ascents on 8,000 meter peaks. He returns this spring to continue that quest.
So while Steck’s projects are measured in time, what sets them apart is the vision behind them. Eventually, his time record for any given climb may be beaten. But like Roger Bannister’s sub-four-minute mile, his first speed ascents will stand as milestones even if their times are broken.
To develop this next generation of alpine gear, Steck teamed up with Mountain Hardwear’s product development team. For the past year, they have worked together to create the ultimate Alpine Speed Climbing kit, a system of apparel, accessories and equipment that’s not just lighter than anything available today, but designed with a simplicity and efficiency of function tailored to Steck’s style. The gear that helps to get Ueli up alpine climbs is now available to help on your next adventure -be it a light weight backpacking trip to Isle Royale National Park or a climbing adventure in the Keweenaw! Stop by to see this amazing gear!
The Desna Light Weight Hoodie
The Desna is our ultimate lightweight hoodie. Its hardface Power Stretch® fabric and versatile semi-fitted cut make this the favorite top for speed-climber Ueli Steck.
Features
Low-profile, helmet-compatible hood is fitted like a balaclava
Deep zipper opening at neck for easy on/off and thermoregulation
Internal stash pocket
Micro-Chamois™-lined chin guard prevents zipper chafe.
The Warlow Pant
Designed for speed-alpinist Ueli Steck, this is the one pant for every alpine activity—minimal in design with maximum 
stretch.
Features
Elastic waist band with belt loops for customized fit
Zippered hand pockets
Articulated knees
Zippered gussets at hem
Scrambler ULT 30
An ultralight summit pack that is fully featured and versatile enough to satisfy the most demanding alpinist or fast packer.
Features
Compression molded backpanel sheds snow and ventilates
HardWave framesheet provides comfortable carry, but is removable to reduce weight
Top loader with zippered top pocket to keep smaller gear handy
Versatile compression system secures climbing gear and overloads, but can be removed to reduce weight when not needed.
Sternum strap and fixed webbing waistbelt add stability when needed and the low profile padded shoulder straps make for a comfortable carry!
If you haven’t seen Ueli climb check out this video…..he truly is a climbing machine!
Gold Level Sponsor Steps Up- Arc’teryx Roger Strong And The M280 Harness
One of our gold level sponsors Arc’teryx is really stepping up to the plate this year by sending one of their team athletes, Roger Strong to instruct and present a slide show Friday night.
Roj’s former career was a captain of a commercial crab fishing vessel in the Bering Sea of Alaska: a job he did for over 20 years (You can see him profiled and posing on the first two seasons of the Discovery Channel’s Deadliest Catch.)
He’s been climbing for nearly 25 years and feels lucky to have climbed all over the globe, opening new rock, mixed, alpine and big wall routes in Alaska, Canada, Mexico and the U.S. Roj loves being on anything vertical, steep and long, mixed with horrible weather to keep him feeling like he’s still getting his ass kicked on the boat somewhere. He attributes any success that he’s had in the mountains to his close relationships with his wife, family and friends coupled with the rigors he’s endured on the deck of the crab boat.
Besides Roger, Arc’teryx is also sending some of their popular climbing harnesses to demo so participants will be able to check these out and go “hang” out at the demo. Arc’teryx designed the M280 Mixed Climbing Harness to give demanding ice and mixed climbers a lightweight, comfortable feel with all the
features they need and nothing more. Thanks to revolutionary WST construction, this Arc’teryx harness disperses weight throughout the entire width of the waist belt, so it doesn’t need bulky padding. The M280 Harness includes two gear loops to hold your draws and four ice clipper slots to help carry screws and holster tools. Arc’teryx also used mesh leg loops to decrease bulk even further and shave weight to a mere 9.8oz.
Don’t forget to check out one of these sweet harnesses at some point Ice Fest weekend!
Another bonus is that Down Wind sports will also be stocking an array of Arc’teryx clothing in the store and between slide shows participants will be able to shop for killer deals!
Thanks Arc’teryx for committing to support Mid West ice climbers and sending Roger to this years Michigan Ice Fest!
Osprey Mutant 38
Looking for a well designed ice pack to haul your gear? The Mutant’s 38 liters (medium) gives you enough space for a lightweight overnight expedition, but is a perfect ice cragging pack suited to haul your gear comfortably along the lakeshore trail.
- The top-loading design features a floating top lid and extendable skirt so you can overfill the pack for longer climbs
- Removable three-fold EVA bivy pad works great for ultralight shelters, but can also give you a pad for gear organization, belaying, or resting on snow
- Pre-shaped, contoured back panel sheds snow and moisture and fits closely thanks to the removable frame sheet and cushy shoulder straps
- Includes a sternum strap with emergency whistle and a waist belt that stows around the front of the pack so you can use your harness
- Gear loops and ice tool loops on the waist belt hold your rack while you approach the route
- Ice tool (or axe) attachment system holds your devices securely and won’t puncture your pack thanks to a gorilla grip patch
- Spindrift collar on the lid keeps contents snow-free and a rope strap secures your line during the approach and descent
- Quick-release Z-shaped compression straps condense the load for easy hauling and also provide additional gear attachment points
Let’s just say at the shop this is our FAVORITE climbing pack! So well thought out and the perfect pack to haul your precious gear to the crag. Don’t forget for the first time ever during the 2012 Michigan Ice Fest participants can score a HUGE deal! We are excited to announce that all clothing will be discounted 30% off, all hardgoods will be 25% off and all Mountain boots will be 20% off! Great time to score a deal and pick up the Osprey Mutanat!
Osprey is a proud sponsor of the 2012 Michigan Ice Fest- Thanks Osprey!
New Gear- La Sportiva Clothing
Many folks are familiar with La Sportiva as a leading manufacturer of trail running shoes, climbing shoes, and technical mountaineering/ice climbing boots. Known as a world leader in the climbing shoes and technical mountain boots market, Sportiva now makes its official entrance into the technical outdoor apparel market. In 2011 La Sportiva went all in with a launch of a sick ski line, and now it only makes sense that for this upcoming season they would expand and start offering a technical outerwear clothing line! Based on their past performance on quality and innovative designs…we can’t wait to get our hands on some of these pieces!
The collection of softwear is dedicated to ski mountaineering race, alpine touring and free-ride skiing. La Sportiva ski mountaineering products will be available in specialist stores by the beginning of the 2012/2013 winter season.
La Sportiva’s winter apparel collection has been carefully designed by a team of mountain specialists in the R&D department and comprises hard-shell, soft-shell, thermal layers, mid layers and base layers divided into well defined lines.
The Upper Peninsula is famous for it’s fresh snow and secret backcountry stashes and we can’t wait to field test some of the clothing and let you in on the the goods! (the clothing not the backcountry stashes!)
Who Wants A Deal? Biggest Discounts Ever At Ice Fest!
For the first time ever during the 2012 Michigan Ice Fest participants can score a HUGE deal! We are excited to announce that all clothing will be discounted 30% off, all hardgoods will be 25% off and all Mountain boots will be 20% off!
So if your looking for a new belay parka, some shinny new tools, or a pair of warm boots- take advantage of these great discounts. Remember….no standing in line waiting for demos when you can be sporting all new gear and plucking the finest routes in the park!
Information Regarding The GriGri 2 Recall
Petzl has discovered that exerting excessive force on the fully extended handle of the GRIGRI 2 can cause internal damage, such that the GRIGRI 2 handle may become stuck in the open position. Check out the recall information:
New Black Diamond ATC Guide
BD’s most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. They have also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device’s guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor. Great belay device just got better!