2016 Michigan Ice Fest Is In The Books- Here Is The Recap

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The 2016 Michigan Ice Fest is in the books and 611  participants ascended on a stormy and cold Munising, Michigan for what was undoubtedly the largest gathering of ice climbers in the Midwest ever! Climbers from at least 19 different states and 3 different countries were represented this year, as participants traveled from far and wide to enjoy the camaraderie of Midwest climbers and the chance to climb the beautiful ice formations at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore!

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TUESDAY
For the first time in MIF history, we set up an exhibitor display and opened registration on Tuesday at our new headquarters, The American Legion Hall. Participants had the opportunity to shop products, interact with athletes, and talk shop with sales reps from some of the leading manufacturers in the outdoor industry. Registration was set up and again this year, our Gold Sponsor Fits Socks hooked up our early course sign ups with brand new socks to keep their feet warm during classes. Thanks Fits for joining us again this year!

Headquarters

WEDNESDAY
The festival was officially underway on Wednesday as several full courses headed out with our professional athletes.  New to the class roster this year was a Backcountry Adventure Class, which offered participants an opportunity to head out onto the lakeshore to climb above the open water of Lake Superior.  The class also provided some transportation methods unique to the UP, including snowmobiling with local legend “Singing Carl” and riding in the awesome “Forward Frank” tank provided by Roam Automotive.


Roam from Down Wind Sports on Vimeo.
Brutal winds and road-closing snow conditions did not deter many folks who were new to the Fest, as most were too excited at the chance to climb the vertical pillars of Pictured Rocks to let a little snow stand in the way. A casual climbers social on Wednesday night at the American Legion beckoned those that had climbed all day as well as those that had just arrived in Munising, and plans for more type-II fun were made for the following day.

THURSDAY
With an unrelenting storm blowing across Lake Superior, participants headed out into the elements for a full day of climbing and clinics.  With the single-digit temperatures, many visiting climbers took advantage of the multitude of belay parkas that were available to demo from Patagonia, Adidas, Arc Teryx, and Rab.

Great stories kept coming in all day of climbers hitting the ice in what some would call “spicy” conditions as the storm intensified throughout the day.  Many exposed to the harsh conditions along the lakeshore, where they took on the full force of the storm, came back with tales of white out conditions, waves crashing at their feet, and bullet proof ice.  All in all, a great adventure!Bridal Veil Falls in the storm

In the afternoon, there were two off-ice clinics offered.  The first from professional climber Carlos Buhler, who presented an interactive seminar on Expedition Planning.  It was a wonderful opportunity to learn about the logistics of planning that trip of a lifetime from one of North America’s most accomplished mountaineers.

The second seminar of the afternoon was both interesting and extremely important, as Asolo Boot representative Henry Barber led a discussion on boot design and how technical features and proper boot fit enhance warmth and climbing performance. Henry even measured and custom fit each participant during the seminar.

Our two evening slideshows highlighted our new venue, The Mather Auditorium. Scarpa athlete Scott Bennett presented beautiful slides of his first trip to the Pakistani Karakoram. With two strong and experienced partners, the team made two big first ascents: Changi Tower (6500m) and the Southwest Ridge of K6 West (7040m). Inspirational to say the least!

Arc Teryx athlete Katie Bono rounded out the evening with a show on her climbing career, living in Canmore, climbing with amazing partners and her first American Women ascent of the Vail test piece The Lightning M13.Scott Bennett presentation

We were barely 48 hours into Ice Fest and the stoke was already high!

The evening’s social kicked off with a sampling from our official beer sponsor- The Ore Dock Brewing Company.  There’s really nothing we like more after a long day of climbing than to relax with our friends and enjoy a beer. Dairyland Coffee Mile Stout- named after one of our favorite climbs, was tapped and enjoyed by many.

FRIDAY
Waking up early Friday morning in the grips of a major blizzard, climbers hit the trails in search of ice. Several groups headed out the Lakeshore Trail, while others walked, skied or snowmobiled out to the backcountry climbs. The fest also saw an increase in participants demoing gear as many took the opportunity to check out equipment and climb in small groups throughout the park.

Most clinics were filled to capacity including one of our newest offerings: the Backcountry Adventure. In addition to the new class offerings, we were fortunate to secure 14 professional athletes — almost triple the amount of previous years — to instruct our clinics and offer some amazing learning opportunities for our participants, all of which wouldn’t have been possible without our sponsors. Even with the cold temps, blowing wind and frozen hands, it seemed like everyone who came through the doors of the Legion on Friday night were all smiles and full of stoke!

New this year we added mini slide shows at the Ice Fest headquarters which offered a more intimate setting to highlight some of the recent adventures our athletes have participated in.  Angela Vanwiemeersch told of her exploits climbing rarely formed ice routes in Zion National Park and Sam Elias on Rooted– his exotic trip to climb in Lebanon.  Both shows were standing room only!Henry Barber Presentation

The Friday evening programs at Mather started off with legend Henry Barber chronicling his storied climbing career cumulating with his amazing first ascent of the Vettifossen a 900-foot frozen WI 6 waterfall in Norway.

Our final show was brought to us by our new Title Sponsor Black Diamond.  BD was kind enough to send us Dawn Glanc who mesmerized us with tales of amazing ice climbs in Greenland.

For Party1the rest of the evening back at headquarters, you could find people browsing the booths of Mountaineer Bob, American Alpine Club, socializing with other climbers from around the country, sampling Black Diamond Brown Ale from the Ore Dock, introducing themselves to the athletes and reps that were scattered around the room or, of course, talking about the crazy weather that soon became the common denominator of all Ice Fest 2016 stories.

 

SATURDAY
Demo4 - Scott BennettAs usual, we got the ball rolling early with equipment hand out for Ice Fest courses. One of the unique aspects of the Ice Fest is the opportunity to take a course — whether entry-level or advanced — from one the most accomplished climbers in the country. Sent to the festival from our Gold Level sponsors, these athletes work with our participants to give them the tools to be successful. Talented, patient, funny and some of the nicest people in the industry- these climbers are what make Michigan Ice Fest so darn fun (and welcoming!)

The weather remained as a top conversation starter as the white-out blizzard shut down M28 for nearly an entire day, and even Sand Point Road for Friday evening. While most of the country was experiencing “El Nino”  we were experiencing “El Tovio”….a real, UP winter that is.  Logistical problems aside, everone got to their appointed classes and proved, once again, that Midwest climbers are a hardy bunch.

Demo Wall 2The demo area at The Curtains saw lots of first time ice climbers learning the basics on some of the many routes that were set up. Cold temperatures and high winds greeted the participants but most climbers were able to top out on their first climbs. Hundreds of climbers were challenged throughout the day with a variety of difficult climbs set up, as morning excitement to get on the ice quickly gave way to afternoon exhaustion that can only come from climbing hard in single-digit temps and Lake Superior gusts.

With a long day of climbing — for some, their third or fourth in a row — everyone converged upon Mather Auditorium for the highly anticipated Saturday night presentation by Tim Emmett and the World Premier of the Michigan Ice Film. Prior to the shows we introduced our 2016 Sue Nott Scholarship winners. Down Wind Sports has created the Sue Nott Scholarship with the purpose of promoting, inspiring, and introducing young females to the sport of ice climbing. The girls had to submit a letter regarding why they wanted to participate, a letter of recommendation from someone other then their parents, and their report card. Three girls were selected this year (triple the amount of previous years!) and were given free entry into the fest, as well as a spot in the Women’s Intro To Ice course. Recognizing these young athletes in front of hundreds of Ice Fest attendees is always one of our favorite parts of the whole weekend- way to go ladies!

With a packed auditorium of over 700 people Tim Emmett started the evening off with an entertaining presentation of base jumping and ice climbing.  The crowd was in awe as Tim described what it was like to be able to climb at Helmcken Falls, BC, where a 500 foot waterfall sprays the underside of a gargantuan cave, forming some of the wildest ice formations that we’ve ever seen. Inspirational, funny and motivational — if you ever get the chance to see Tim present- GO!

Finally, the weekend’s most anticipated event was cued up, as Aaron Petersen presented his labor of love, the Michigan Ice Film , to a sold out crowd! Three years of filming culminated into the world premier of the film, which was set against the crashing waves of an inland sea, and packed with humor and action from some of the biggest names in climbing alongside a cast of hardy locals. It is the untold story of one of the world’s largest concentrations of climbable ice in a scrappy corner of the American Midwest: Munising, Michigan. For a lot of people this was the highlight of the weekend.  A big congratulations goes out to Aaron and all of the people who devoted so much time and energy to making us proud to be not only Michiganders, but Midwest ice climbers.  Haven’t seen it yet?   Click the link above to see this feature length film!

After the show the excited crowd gathered on the city shuttles and headed over to the Legion. With an incredibly packed headquarters the evening concluded with the now famous Michigan Ice Fest raffle where we gave out over $7000.00 of gear and clothing to some very excited climbers. Soft shells, belay parkas, ropes, crampons, parkas, packs, tools, screws, and ice boots were only a few of the items raffled off to the biggest Saturday night crowd we’ve ever had!

SUNDAY
The classic UP weather finally broke, the highway opened and a wee bit of sunshine warmed climbers as they headed out to Sunday classes and the demo.  The effects of climbing hard all day Saturday and a late night of socializing must have taken its toll on climbers as the demo area was very laid back all day on Sunday. This afforded climbers their choice of routes for most of the day.

Asleep on a duffelWith all the changes we’ve seen this year and with over 100 new registrants, it was another great Michigan Ice Festival and we appreciate all of the patronage we get from Midwest climbers. We are proud to say that over the weekend we were able to sign up 54 new members to the American Alpine Club, and exposed hundreds of first-time climbers to the sport of ice climbing — not to mention all the professional athletes who were able to experience the cold and masochistic world of Midwest ice climbing for the first time.

As you look back on your Ice Fest experience we ask you to think about the companies and organizations that you saw this weekend- and if you liked what you saw or tried on during the weekend we encourage you to buy local. Buying local in the Midwest supports the reps that came, and in turn helps to keep the Michigan Ice Fest alive and healthy. Feeling some retrospective remorse for not buying those mountain boots? Down Wind Sports is still offering the Ice Fest discount for the next week. Give them a call at 906-226-7112.

We also want to thank all those who volunteered their time, energy, and hard work throughout the weekend. Without these folks Ice Fest would simply not happen.

The reason our event is so successful is because of the assistance behind the scene from all of our sponsors. If you were at the event and had fun, enjoyed the presenters, or loved the killer raffle prizes please drop the following sponsors a note to tell them that you appreciate them and their support for the Michigan Ice Fest!

Patagonia
Allison.Allen@patagonia.com

La Sportiva
erussell@sportiva.com

Black Diamond
tyler.willcutt@bdel.com

Scarpa
mark@scarpa.com

Petzl
dburleson@petzl.com

Grivel
peterm@libertymountain.com

Sterling Rope
marketing@sterlingrope.com

FITS Socks
help@fitssock.com

Asolo
cbf106@asolo-usa.com

Camp/Cassin
glen@camp-usa.com

Lowa
brmreps@aol.com

Dry Ice Tools
Ben@furnace-industries.com

The North Face
abrown@lakeshorereps.com
mrobbins@lakeshorereps.com

Arc Teryx
justin.sweeny@arcteryx.com

Mountain Hardwear
noklobzija@mountainhardwear.com

Adidas
dkay@agron.com

And finally we can’t thank our athletes enough.  Over the years they have shared their expertise and knowledge to hundreds of Michigan Ice Fest participants giving them a solid foundation to help them to enjoy the sport we love and to help keep them safe while out climbing.  The 2016 lineup was as strong as it has ever been- to the following we are forever indebt. Many of these athletes are guides and would love to see Michigan Ice Fest participants in the future.  Want another adventure?  Be sure to click on their links to see where they might be able to take you!

Henry Barber
Scott Bennett
Katie Bono
Carlos Buhler
Anne Gilbert Chase
Karsten Delap
Sam Elias
Tim Emmett
Dawn Glanc
Kim Hall
Anna Pfaff
Jim Shimberg
Angela VanWiemeersch
Mark Wilford
Jeff Witt
Heidi Wirtz

Thank you so much for being part of the Michigan Ice Fest this year! The festival is a gathering of our tribe and we are so thankful that climbers from all over the Midwest continue to come up and celebrate everything that is Michigan Ice. We hope you had an enjoyable experience and you can be sure that we are already working on bringing you the best Ice Fest in 2017! Be sure to keep up with what is happening with the Michigan Ice Fest through our blog at michiganicefest.com or on our facebook page!

NEXT YEAR’S DATES!

ICE FEST February 14-19th 2017

Friday Evening Sam Elias Presentation- Rooted

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This is going to be a good one from one of our favorites!  After a day of climbing stop by the headquarters, grab a refreshment and head on up to the classroom to be inspired by one of the most well rounded athletes out there.

Rooted — A VICE Sports and The North Face produced project to Lebanon with climber Sam Elias to explore not only the amazing landscape of the small middle eastern country, but also to discover and connect with family history and share the passion of a life built around being outdoors, climbing and skiing.

Friday Evening 6PM – American Legion Hall

Slideshow –  Presentation Sponsored by Black Diamond & The North Face

Dawn Glanc – Seeking Adventure

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Professional mixed climber Dawn Glanc is the quintessential Midwest­ child ­turned-
professional athlete. She grew up in suburban Ohio, where softball and rollerskating were
her primary pastimes and mountains not yet a part of her worldview. When a 13­day
motorcycle tour with her dad introduced her to Colorado, Montana and Wyoming as a 20­
year­ old, Glanc took a medium ­sized step towards living in the mountains that had
captivated her upon their first meeting. She landed in South Dakota for college, where a
new friend took her climbing mere days after she arrived. She was hooked, and began
pursuing a climbing career with everything she had. 20 years later, she’s one of the best
female mixed climbers in the world, and is working on a new film, Mixtress, that intends to
highlight the immense leaps made by North American women in the mixed ­climbing
world. The trailer for Mixtress will be shown at this year’s Ice Fest, where Glanc will be
speaking and instructing.

On her childhood:

Growing up, I was always doing things I shouldn’t have been doing. That being said, I
think when I found climbing, it was the thing that I was seeking — I was seeking
adventure, I was seeking being on the edge, being 100 percent focused on something
and not getting in trouble for it. It was a more positive thing to do than all the other stuff I
was goofing around with when I was a kid. So I think climbing was the thing that I had
never experienced — an activity where you have to use all of your brain and all of your
body and all of your focus to do it.

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On her first taste of climbing:

I moved to South Dakota in 1996 to go to college at Black Hills State, and within my first
week I met Mike Niebuhr, who worked at the local climbing shop. We went climbing, and
he showed me what sport climbing was because I’d never seen that, I had only top­roped.
He gave me gear and showed me what I needed for gear. That same winter, the same
guy said ‘hey Dawn, we’re going ice climbing.’ And I was like ‘yeah I’ll go climbing.’ And it
was awesome, I loved it the very first time I’d ever done it. So I have been climbing both
rock and ice since 1996.

On growing up in suburban Ohio:

I didn’t really have many outlets as a girl in Ohio. The only mountains I’d ever seen were
on TV or the Appalachians, and no offense to the people in the Appalachians, they are
mountains, but they aren’t comparable to the Rockies and the Alps and the Sierras.
I grew up seeing this stuff on TV. And it never occurred to me that somebody would go
climbing, it never occurred to me that someone would want to stand on top of a mountain.
I’m from a suburb in Ohio, and no one in my family really did anything outdoors other than
a truck club we were in as a family where we would go out in a four ­wheel drive truck. We
didn’t go on family hiking or backpacking trips, and it really wouldn’t have occurred to
anyone to carry a backpack and go hiking. So when I first moved to the mountains when I
was 20, I figured I was leaving, this is where I needed to be.’

On moving away from Ohio:

Once I came to South Dakota, my world was so opened in such a way that I’d never
seen. I saw people who were 40 years old riding bicycles — I’d never seen that in Ohio.
I’d never seen an adult ride a bicycle without a child nearby. I didn’t see adults jogging,
and all this stuff that I saw in South Dakota just blew me away, and the more I got
involved with this stuff the more I just needed to be involved with it. I immersed myself in
the situation and didn’t allow myself to deviate from this path. I wanted to be a climber, so
I wasn’t going to spend my time playing tennis. I wanted to climb. And then I wanted to be
a guide, so I wasn’t going to take a job where I wasn’t guiding. I just kept going in that
direction.

On finding inspiration:

I get jealous when people do cool stuff around me. I don’t really read magazines for that
reason. If I met someone that said “I’m going to India tomorrow to go do this ice climb!” I’d be like ‘ooh I want to go to India!’ So my inspiration does come from everyone around me, but it’s also making these choices to never deviate from this path.

Advice to new climbers:

Take some sort of course with a professional instructor. Your learning curve is going to be
so fast, and you’ll learn the right things and techniques right away. You’re not going to
learn some of this bullshit urban legend stuff and things that you “have to do” but which
are nonsensical or perhaps even unsafe. If you take a course, right away you will feel
empowered and you’ll have the knowledge to be able to do this stuff and you won’t have
to rely on people as much. You’ll have something that you want to do, and you’ll be able
to do it because you won’t be relying on others other than to belay you. With all this
equipment and all that we do and all the knowledge and engineering that goes into this
stuff, you really want a professional to teach you. And if you’re a woman, there is so much
opportunity for you to learn how to ice climb right now.

On climbing in Munising:

When it’s cold your strategy has to change because the ice is changing. I think Munising
is a good place to prepare you for other crazier and bigger places. Here in Colorado you
can ice climb when it’s 40 degrees and sunny and wear a softshell jacket. Then if you go
to Munising and you have dull tools and a Colorado lightweight jacket on, you’d freeze
your ass off and probably never get off the ground because your tools wouldn’t penetrate
the ice. It’s a pretty cool place.

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On her new film, Mixtress:

Mixtress is a film about North American female mixed climbers. There’s been some real
progress that’s happened over the last ten years in mixed climbing in terms of the
standards of routes that have gone up in North America, and what women have done in
the last five years has been incredible. The grade has been pushed so quickly. It’s pretty
incredible. When I went to Munising to help shoot the Michigan Ice Film, I was thinking about other film ideas since I’d always wanted to make one. And I was never inspired by the right idea. And then it came to me that there were all these great things happening in the mixed climbing world by women. And you weren’t hearing about it or reading about it,
most people didn’t a.) know what mixed climbing even was or b.) know that these women
were fricking crushing it. The only ones you see in the news are the male athletes, over
and over, even though women are doing all these amazing things. So I was sick of it, and
I figured that if I don’t tell this story, if we don’t tell this story, then no one will. And I have
so much passion for mixed climbing that I don’t expect anyone else to com along and
have that much passion and want to tell this story, so that’s where this comes from.
Plus, the ladies in the film are super inspiring and I love them all. I just wanted to tell their
story and hang out with them. This is my excuse to get to go climbing with them.

On her goals in creating this film:

My goal is to inspire people to go climbing, to try this crazy sport of mixed climbing.
Everyone needs a hobby, everyone needs something that helps to relieve stress and get
away from whatever it is that you need to get away from. Climbing is a healthy, positive
way to do that. I think that when you go climbing, you learn so much about yourself,
become connected to the environment and you have to relate to people — you can’t text
message your partner, you have to be present with each other. Females are also kind of
the head of household, so if they find ice climbing to be important within their own
household and their lives, then that spreads — that spreads to their kids, their husbands,
their communities.

Glanc will be joined in her new film by professional climbers Jen Olson, Sarah Hueniken
and Kendra Stritch. As of now, Glanc and the rest of the Mixtress team have raised nearly
$15,000 for their film, with a goal of $30,000 by March to assist in production costs. Glanc
plans to show the trailer for the film at the 2016 Michigan Ice Fest, while the entire short
film will be finalized by May.

 

 

Amanda Monthei is a freelance writer and an employee at Down Wind Sports in Marquette, Michigan. Whether by writing or selling gear, she enjoys making action sports more accessible for those who wouldn’t otherwise have the opportunity or desire to try them. More of her writing can be found at www.amandamonthei.com

Black Diamond Stance Belay Parka Give Away!

12297827224_c18aa55a18_zRoad trips.  Your climb is done, your gear is jammed in the back and you point the rig east as the odometer ticks away the mileage. The open road is often a great incubator for incredible ideas.  Jon Jugenheimer and his wife Liz, having just spent some quality time on the ice in Hyalite Canyon in Bozeman were cranking out the mileage markers when they came up with an amazing idea.  “Lets give away a Stance Belay Parka to someone who signs up for a Michigan Ice Fest Clinic this week”.

 

ZW9T_445_ATLT_Stance_Belay_Parka_M_Front_webSTANCE BELAY PARKA

If you have ever climbed along the southern shore of Lake Superior in February you know that temperatures can be brutal.  The north winds screaming across the lake can make even the saltiest of climbers whimper in their boots- this sure ain’t no sunny Colorado climbing! To endure these temperatures the smart climbers invest in the best gear….and that just might be the Stance Belay Parka from Black Diamond.  The Stance Parka is a warm synthetic parka designed to withstand the cold temperatures encountered at a snowy frozen belay stance.  It’s designed long and baggy, so there is really no need to size up.  The unique hand pockets are sewn in between the two layers of PrimaLoft so your hands stay toasty warm,  a great feature that your climbing partners will love while leading Twin Towers.

The Stance is filled with two layers of lightweight, highly compressible PrimaLoft Silver Hi-Loft insulation that provide sleeping-bag level warmth, even when wet. A two-way center front zipper lets you wear the jacket over your harness while belaying, and oversized hand, chest and internal drop pockets accommodate gloves, water bottles and other essentials.

  • Adjustable, helmet-compatible hood
  • Zippered chest pockets
  • Zippered hand pockets
  • Two internal drop pockets
  • Internal stretch media pocket
  • Stretch gusset cuffs
  • Two-way front zipper
  • Drawcord hem
  • Weight: 730 g
Jon and Liz, road weary but almost home
Jon and Liz, road weary but almost home

 

How can Jon give away a parka?  Well he just happens to be the Midwest Sales representative of Black Diamond Equipment, our Title Sponsor for the 2016 Michigan Ice Fest!  So here is how we will work it.  Sign up for a clinic at the Michigan Ice Fest by Friday December 4th, and you will automatically be entered into the raffle for the parka.  Already registered for a clinic?  We got ya covered as your name is in the barrel!  Winner will be announced on our facebook page on Saturday December 5th.

Black Diamond Equipment Factory Tour

20712719541_0e60344a72_bSome of the Michigan Ice Fest staff recently went to Salt Lake City for the the Outdoor Retailer show, which is the largest outdoor sports show of its kind, and caters to the specialty outdoor retailer.  It is where you will find all of the upcoming outdoor products and technical innovations that are to hit the market.

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After a long day of working the show floor we were treated with a tour of the Black Diamond factory which just happens to be based in Salt Lake City.  BD’s 85,000-square-foot manufacturing center and office complex is where the company manufactures a majority of its climbing and skiing products. Our friend and sales rep Jon Jugenheimer was our personal tour guide and with safety glasses in hand we explored the nooks and cranny’s of this organized chaos.  Equipment in various stages of completion was strewn everywhere, including ice axes, screws, biners, and crampons, all waiting for completion and shipping out to retailers around the world.   It was really interesting to see the stock metal, laser cutting machines, to see the hot and cold forging processes, learning the steps involved in how the gear is manufactured, and most importantly- meet the workers who are making and assembling the gear we climb on!

20518246800_54edca2bcf_bBD uses two different forging methods to build carabiners—hot and cold forging. Each has its benefits and using both allows us to achieve the best possible shape, size and strength for each carabiner’s intended use. Hot forging, a process where both the rod stock and forge dies are heated, allows us to “move” the metal, creating more intricate shapes, such as the GridLock and Oz biner.

Cold forging is done when the metal, usually aluminum, which is soft and easy to work with, is cold. Cold forging is typically less expensive than hot forging, produces a precision product that requires little finish work, and is often used for symmetrical items such as Oval Wire and Light D carabiners.

20517928578_b288eef5f5_bOur favorite part of the tour was checking out the process in making all of those beautiful express ice screws! We all know that these are some of the nicest placing screws on the planet thanks to the highly polished, smooth interior surfaces and finely tuned thread geometry.  Here is a visual tour of the process in which they are made!

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20696661922_f80ea653a0_bWe were continually impressed by the relentless attention to detail, the rigorous testing procedures and the distinctive sounds and efficiency of production machinery in action. The BD brand is the real deal- kudos for manufacturing innovative climbing gear right here in the USA! Be sure to check out the expanded Black Diamond equipment booth coming to the 2016 Michigan Ice Fest!

 

First Athlete Booked- Dawn Glanc!

18744310861_01dd9fbf52_bMichigan Ice Fest is proud to announce that Dawn Glanc is returning to the 2016 Michigan Ice Fest instructing our courses.  We are so fortunate to have our Title Sponsor Black Diamond sending Dawn to the event!

Dawn Glanc, pronounced “Glance”,  is a sponsored athlete and a professional climbing guide. Dawn was born and raised in Brunswick Ohio, and currently Lives in Ouray Colorado. Dawn is an American Mountain Guide certified Rock and Alpine Guide and is a Co-Owner of Chicks Climbing and Skiing. Dawn has a passion for climbing and focuses on the disciplines of rock, ice and mixed climbing. Dawn has been climbing both rock and ice since 1996. During that time she has climbed all over the world and has completed multiple first ascent Ice lines in Cody Wyoming and ice and mixed lines in Iceland. In December 2013 Dawn became the First Woman in the United States to climb M11+. Her sponsors include Black Diamond, Mountain Hardwear, La Sportiva, Bluewater Ropes and Julbo Eyewear.

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BD Logo-Grey

Michigan Ice Fest 2015 Recap

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The 2015 Michigan Ice Fest is in the books and 492 participants ascended on Munising Michigan for what was the largest gathering of ice climbers in the Midwest ever!  Climbers from 13 different states, and two different countries were represented this year with participants coming to enjoy the camaraderie of Midwest climbers and the chance to climb the beautiful ice formations at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and Grand Island!

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THURSDAY

The festival got underway on Thursday with Introduction to Ice Courses, and a Top Rope Anchor Course where participants spent the day learning the tricks of the trade out at The Curtains. Many folks new to the Fest were excited to get out on the ice and a chance to climb the vertical pillars that are so common in the park.  Other early arrivers jumped at the chance to get out on the Lakeshore Trail and take advantage of the great ice conditions.   Sunny and mild temperatures made for an enjoyable day of cragging!

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Thursday night with a cold brew in hand, climbers were treated to a collection of slides submitted by Ice Fest participants and set to music, during the third annual  “Participants Slide Show: Beers with Bill III”.  After the show many hung around Sydney’s hatching plans for an early morning departure and dreams of climbing the big routes along Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.

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FRIDAY

Waking up early Friday morning with temps hovering around 20 degrees, climbers hit the trails in search of ice.  Several groups headed out the Lakeshore Trail, and others walking, skiing or snowmobiling out to Grand Island  The fest also saw an increase in demos as many took advantage to check out gear and climb in small groups throughout the park.  Introduction to Ice Courses, a Women’s Into to Ice, a Top Rope Anchor Course as well as a Rigging and Rescue course were filled to capacity and went out for a day of instruction and climbing.

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Friday evenings programs started off with a climbing social and free beer sponsored by Salewa.  Exciting news of a new guidebook coming to the Canadian side of Lake Superior and a short slide show on climbs in the Agawa Canyon area started off the evening’s festivities.  The first presenter originally from Marquette, was Ben Erdmann and now a proud climbing bum.  Fresh off the mountains of Patagonia, Ben entertained the crowd with shots of his adventures.  We are so proud of Ben and what he has accomplished in his climbing career!

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We are so happy that Title Sponsor La Sportiva sent Will Mayo out for a second straight year to instruct and present.  For the last few years Will has been literally on fire putting up and climbing some of the hardest mixed routes in North America.  Friday evenings presentation was highlighted by Will’s trip to Alaska with Josh Wharton – the two completed a new route on Huntington, Scorched Granite (4,200′, M7 AI6), just two days after leaving home in Colorado!

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The rest of the evening you could find people browsing the booths of  Mountaineer Bob, The Access Fund /American Alpine Club, socializing with other climbers from around the country, introducing themselves to the athletes and reps,  and heading over to the Down Wind Sports booth looking to score a few deals!

 

SATURDAY

As usual we got the ball rolling early with equipment hand out for Ice Fest Courses.  One of the unique aspects of the Ice Fest is the opportunity of taking a course from one the  most accomplished climbers in the country.  Sent to the festival from one of our Gold Level sponsors, these athletes work with our participants to give them the tools to be successful.  Talented, patient, funny and some of the nicest guys in the industry- these climbers are what make Michigan Ice Fest so darn fun!  Two Intro to Ice, Lead climbing, Women’s Intro to Ice and the Kids courses all filled up fast and participants were treated to instruction provided by Will Mayo, Mark Wilford, Ben Erdmann, Anna Pfaff, Raphael Slawinski, and Barry Blanchard.  Again this year, our Gold Sponsor Fits Socks hooked up course participants with brand new socks to keep their feet warm during classes!  Thanks Fits for joining us again this year!

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DEMOS

Year after year the leading manufactures of ice climbing gear and clothing step up to the plate and send loads of demo gear to our festival for participants to “try before buying”.  We really appreciate the effort and the amount of gear these companies send to help ensure that the demo is a success and that we are able to outfit many first time climbers.  Besides our long time sponsors of the demo- Sterling Ropes, Black Diamond, Petzl, Scarpa, Salewa, Asolo, Camp, Cassin, Grivel- Liberty Mountain, Patagonia, Hopp Outdoors, University of Minnesota, and the Ridge Roamers.  Saturday morning saw long lines of participants winding through Sydney’s waiting to score their gear.  It was close but we outfitted nearly 275 participants with the latest ice gear!  We thank everyone for their patience and we are working to secure more demo gear for next years event.

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Gold Level sponsors Black Diamond and Patagonia graciously supplied their Stance Belay Parkas to the Michigan Ice Fest participants to keep the participants warm and happy throughout the weekend.

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The Demo area at The Curtains saw lots of first time ice climbers learning the basics on some of the many routes that were set up.  Mild temperatures and a light snowfall greeted the participants but determination and grit got most climbers to top out on their first climbs.  Hundreds of climbers were challenged throughout the day with a variety of difficult climbs set up, and excitement filled the air as climbers celebrated their success.

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After a long day of climbing, everyone converged upon Sydney’s for the Saturday evening social and free beer provided by Dry Ice Tools.  During the shows we introduced Leigha as the 2015 Sue Nott Scholarship winner.  Down Wind Sports has created the Sue Nott Scholarship with the purpose to promote, inspire, and introduce young females to the sport of ice climbing. Girls had to submit a letter of why they wanted to participate, a letter of recommendation from someone other then their parents, and their report card.  Leigha was selected from the applications and was provided with free entry into the fest and the Women’s Intro To Ice Course.   It is always one of our favorite parts of the whole weekend- way to Leigha!

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With a standing room only crowd, our first presentation of the evening was from Cold Clear Cinema on a new film project called Michigan Ice. Producer Aaron Peterson premiered the trailer and answered questions on the film.  Be sure to make it to the 2016 Michigan Ice Fest as we will have the world premiere of this beautiful film!
 
 
 
 
Raphael Slawinski followed with a wonderful show highlighting the spectacular climbing in the Canadian Rockies as well as his amazing climb of K6 in Pakastan.  A plethora of amazing ice and mixed routes filled the screen as Raphael described various routes he has established and climbed over the years.   A huge thank you goes out to our Title Sponsor Black Diamond for hooking us up with a class act like Raphael.
 
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Our final presentation of the night was from Ice Fest favorite Barry Blanchard.  One of North America’s top alpinists, Barry read excerpts from his new book The Calling: A Life Rocked by Mountains.  Entertaining, funny, and poetic, Barry never disappoints delivering a great show.  Questions and a book signing followed this amazing show.

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As usual the evening concluded with the Michigan Ice Fest raffle where we gave out over $6000.00 of gear and clothing to some very excited climbers.  Soft shells, belay parkas,  Sterling Ropes, Cassin crampons, Mountain Hardwear parkas, Patagonia packs and jackets, GoPro, Petzl Nomics and La Sportiva ice boots were only a few of the items raffled off!

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SUNDAY

More mild temps greeted our Intro to Ice  and Intro to Leading participants which made for comfortable classes all day long.  The effects of climbing hard all day Saturday and a late night of socializing must have took it toll on climbers as the demo area was a very laid back all day Sunday allowing climbers their choice of routes for most of the day.

 

All in all it was another great Michigan Ice Festival and we appreciate all of the patronage we get from Midwest climbers.  We are proud to say that over the weekend we were able to sign up 34 new members to the American Alpine Club, and the Access Fund  and exposed hundreds of first time climbers to the sport of ice climbing.

As you look back on your Ice Fest experience we ask you to think about the companies and organizations that you saw this weekend- and if you liked what you saw or tried during the weekend we encourage you to buy local.  Buying local in the Midwest supports the Reps that came, and in turn helps to keep the Michigan Ice Fest alive and healthy.  Having remorse for not buying those mountain boots?  Down Wind Sports is still offering the Ice Fest discount for the next week.  Give them a call at 906-226-7112.

We also want to thank all those who volunteered their time, energy, and hard work throughout the weekend.  Without these folks Ice Fest would simply not happen.  A big shout out to  Maddog Lynch, Mario Molin, Linda Wappner, Bryan DeAgustine,  Neil Poglese, the Schneiderhan’s, Ian Hahn, Colten Morre, Alec Berghoef

 

The reason our event is so successful is because of the assistance behind the scene from all of our sponsors.  If you were at the event and had fun, enjoyed the presenters, or loved the killer raffle prizes please drop the following sponsors a note to tell them that you appreciate them supporting the Michigan Ice Fest!

Patagonia                       dixiemarree@patagonia.com   Jimmy.Hopper@patagonia.com

La Sportiva                  erussell@sportiva.com

Black Diamond            Holly.Merriman@bdel.com

Scarpa                                mark@scarpa.com

Petzl                               james@figure8sales.com        codette@petzl.com

Grivel                               peterm@libertymountain.com

Sterling Rope                 marketing@sterlingrope.com

FITS Socks                       help@fitssock.com

Salewa                               info@salewa.us   nrgsales1@gmail.com

Asolo                                 cbf106@asolo-usa.com

Camp USA                      glen@camp-usa.com

 

 

 

Thank you so much for being part of the Michigan Ice Fest this year!  Be sure to keep up with what is happening with the Michigan Ice Fest through our blog at michiganicefest.com or on our facebook page!

 

NEW DATES!

ICE FEST 2016 February 11-14th

MAJOR ANNOUNCEMENT- PRESENTER CHANGES!

 

 

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Due to some unforeseen circumstances Kyle Dempster and Doug Robinson will not be able to attend the 2015 Michigan Ice Fest.  While we are disappointed that the guys won’t be able to make it this year we will most certainly see them in Michigan next year!  Thanks to some scrambling and hard work by Jon Jugenheimer of Black Diamond, and Brett Merlin of CAMP USA, we are very excited to announce that Raphael Slawinski  and Anna Pfaff will be joining us as instructors/presentors!

 

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Raphael Slawinski

I got into climbing late, in my mid-twenties. And maybe it was for the best, as I’m still excited about it more than twenty years later. It was moving away from the Canadian Rockies to the flatlands of Chicago, where I went to grad school, which got me into climbing. There were no mountains to scramble, so I started rock and ice climbing on small Midwestern cliffs. These days I’m comfortably settled back in Calgary, on the doorstep of the Rockies. Fortunately my job as a physics professor leaves me lots (but never enough!) time to play in my favorite mountain range.

Picture1It’s a good thing I like winter, because it’s really, really long here. There’s so much you can do: ice, mixed, ski … and sometimes, when the motivation’s high and avy hazard low, even winter alpine. Don’t get me wrong though, I love our summers too. High in the shadows of a big limestone north face, looking down on sunlit glaciers and forests far below, is one of the best places I can imagine being.

Ten years ago I discovered the great peaks of the Pakistani Karakoram. There’s something among those giant pyramids of granite and ice, rising above arid, brown valleys, that I haven’t found anywhere else. Whatever it is, it’s drawn me back time and again.

You can check out all things Raphael at his blog by clicking here!

 

Raphael is being sent to Michigan Ice by our Gold Sponsor Black Diamond!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Anna Pfaff

Anna grew up in Ohio and started climbing when she moved out west in hery early twenties.  Some of her earliest memories of climbing include routes like the Emmons – Winthrop on Mount Rainier, Washington, the Salathe on El Capitan, Yosemite with Jean Readle, the Beckey-Chouinard in The Bugaboos, Canada. She has also climbed and ice-climbed in some of the most spectacular locations on earth. From Patagonia, Kyrgyzstan, Tibet, Pakistan, the Himalaya’s.  More info on Anna to come but in the meantime check out her blog here!

Anna is being sent to Michigan Ice by our Gold Sponsor CAMP USA!

 

UPDATE PRESENTATION SCHEDULE

Thursday

TBA

 

Friday

Ben Erdmann

Raphael Slawinski

 

Saturday

Will Mayo

Barry Blanchard